(This review is posted for both the Aprilaire 600M and 600A units in order to contrast them and to describe their similar functions.)The Aprilaire folks say the "important considerations in the evaluation of a humidifier are precise control, sufficient capacity, trouble-free performance and minimum maintenance." I would add cost, ease of operation, and ease of installation. My sense is that this unit gets high marks in all of these areas.
The Aprilaire 600 humidifier operates in conjunction with your heating system to add moisture to your air. It is called a bypass humidifier because some air leaving your furnace is rerouted to bypass your ventilation system and instead run through the humidifier, absorbing moisture through evaporation, before returning to your furnace and on into your home. (The bypass is accomplished as a function of the higher air pressure in the supply leaving your furnace than in the return air going into your furnace.)
Generally, a hole is cut into your supply plenum (through which heated air leaves your furnace and goes into your home) and a bypass duct is run into the humidifier, which is mounted on the return plenum (which feeds air from your home into the furnace). Within the humidifier is a pad, which holds water like a sponge. As the heated air from the supply is bypassed through the humidifier, it picks up evaporated moisture and is run back into the furnace for distribution into your home.
A hygrostat (humidifier control – set manually on the 600M and automatically on the 600A) monitors the humidity in the air and controls a valve to release (or shut off) water running through the humidifier. It is generally mounted on the return plenum from which it measures the relative humidity (RH) in your air.
Water running through is a key point here, since when the valve is open, water not only soaks the evaporating pad, but excess water runs through a hose into your drain. I don't know how much water is simply – literally – poured down the drain, but it doesn't feel good to watch it go. This leads to your first decision – hooking your humidifier to the hot water or the cold water supply. The hot water humidifies your house more quickly, as it is easier to evaporate, but of course the waste is much more expensive (and it's not good for the environment to heat water only to run it down the drain).
When the hygrostat determines it is time to run the humidifier, it generally waits for the furnace to come on and send it a signal from the control board (in most modern units). However, you can also install the humidifier to run when the fan is on without the heat (you'll need to use the hot water for this). Finally, you can install it so the hygrostat signals the fan to run so that it can humidify your dry house automatically.
Automatic v. manual control?
It is highly recommended by the manufacturer to keep the humidity low enough in your house to prevent moisture from condensing (or frosting) on your windows, which could cause rot and mildew. The condensation point is a function of the humidity in your house and the temperature of the inside surface of your windows. This is a function of the thickness of your window glass and the temperature outside.
The automatic hygrostat (600A) measures the temperature outside your home to drop the humidity when the temperature falls. However, it takes up to three days to make a significant change in your home's humidity, and the hygrostat can't know what the temperature is going to be over the next three days. The automatic control of the 600A is a bit more expensive, is harder to install, offers more possibilities for malfunctions, and doesn't fully do what you want it to know the temperature in the future. Still, you'd have to have more discipline than I have to keep up with the weather forecast and run to the basement every day to manually adjust the unit. Although I chose the manual version based on the recommendations of two plumbers – one on YouTube and the one who installed my unit – I believe I would now select the automatic one.
Installation was done quickly by a professional for $240 plus $30 in supplies. I was quoted prices up to $500, so be sure to shop around. The work is simple, if you know how to do it, and most plumbers have installed many of these.
The maintenance seems simple – replace the pad annually (about $15), shut off the air bypass valve and the water valve in the spring. I suppose you should also check the water flow through the little orifices and stuff, but I imagine I'll forget that until the system doesn't seem to work properly.
Overall, I am very happy with this unit.
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